Ghettofabricatiolous

No rad fluid? No problem….wait, no headgasket, big problem. I said when the 4ac died it would be time for a swap. I’ve been squirreling my parts away since landing here, and two 13b’s with transmissions ended up in my shed. It’s time for a 13b swap. Since e7 club is kinda of new to Quinn, I doubt many of you saw my first Rotary Corolla.

I’ve got the unmidas touch.  Endless amounts of poop with what I build. The things I build work well but they are ugly and questionable. As was the previous Rotarolla. It was built in 4 days and all in was $160, with lots of help from friends. With that experience in hand, I’ve begun preparations for my second rotary Corolla. The big issue is mounting the engine a different way. Last build the subframe was dropped to save time, but I refuse to repeat that mistake. I’ve been working on an alternative solution.

Situation:
13B S4 N/A Swap into a chassis different than an FC/FB.
Problem: 3 similar issues:
1. Transmission sits to high, will cause transmission tunnel cutting.
2. Oil pan doesn’t clear the subframe.
3. Motor sits to high, can’t close hood.
Requirements, considerations:
No cutting to the chassis or subframe
Hypothesis for Solution:
Reduce pan height, allowing motor to sit much lower, improving transmission tunnel clearance as well as hood clearance.
Proposal:
Replacing the deep stock 13b oil pan, with a flat plate. Installing an Oil reservoir, and rerouting the oil pickup to the reservoir, while collecting and returning oil from the remaining cavity below the engine, to the new reservoir.
A simple process, the plate measured, drilled and installed. The Oil Scavenge tube is cut and lengthened into the reservoir. A Toyota Previa remote reservoir and electric oil pump are installed. The 13b’s mechanical pump is retained and sucks oil from the reservoir into the regular oil system. Once passed through the system, the remaining oil is returned through the original routes to the now much flatter, smaller pan. The electric oil pump, pulls oil from the smaller pan, into the reservoir through an installed threaded drain bung.
This allows the engine to sit dramatically lower than with the original oil pan.
Reasoning:
A rotary only uses an oil pan as a catch basin/storage unit, unlike a piston engine which uses it for those purposes, as well as crankshaft lubrication.
Parts needed:
Flat sheet of steel or aluminum.
Oil Reservoir and remote electric pump from a 91 Toyota Previa.
Piping.
Some minor welding.
Visuals:
Plenty of open Cavities here around the oil return areas.
A second view to show how flat the bottom of the 13b is. Note: the oil scavenge pipe mounting surface is level and parallel to the oil pan mounting surface. Also, the front oil pressure regulator over flow nozzle mounting surface is also level and parallel to the oil pan mounting surface.
As you can see here, the front oil pressure regulator fitting and Oil scavenge tube can easily sandwich the new flat pan.
Proof of concept showing the scavenge pump piping, drain bung, and front oil pressure regulator out side of the pan. They will all need to be plumed to the reservoir.
So with this in mind, hopefully I’ll be able to mount the bottom of the motor almost touching the subframe, this may allow me to use the original mounts without any cutting at all to the entire car, save making a new hole for the shifter. It’s still a concept, and I’m unsure whether I will take this approach.
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~ by discoquinn on October 4, 2010.

5 Responses to “Ghettofabricatiolous”

  1. wow dude, wow.

    you.

    are.

    amazing.

    holy shit haha this is nuts.

  2. I assume you are going to be solid mounting the engine. Are you going to be running a flex line to the oil reservoir?

  3. Solid yes, unsure of the line type for now.

  4. So you decided to go 13B > 12A huh

  5. Did you go ahead with this design & did it work? I have been scouring the internet for information on this concept. My idea was not to use an electric oil pump and seperate resevoir, but instead fabricate an oil pan that is about 2 inches less deep than the factory pan (maybe 2″ in total depth, so 2″ deeper than your concept but not as deep as a stock pan). The custom pan would be wider than the stock pan, so as to give the same overall volume, with the base gradually rising upwards from where the scavenger pump pulls the oil (so the oil accumulates at the scavenger pump pick-up). My only concern on this idea is the effects of cornering and driving up and down hills. Will the intetia and lesser angles of the base of the custom pan cause oil to move to one side so that it cannot be picked up by the scavenger pipe? Do you know if the oil pan is usually full with oil when the engine is running?

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